Iceland’s Reykjavík and the Golden Circle

Hallgrímskirkja Lutheran Church

After Reykjavík's Catholic minority built their church atop the hill west of downtown in 1929, Lutheran state church leaders felt they needed to keep up. They hired the same architect to build a taller, bigger response on the higher hill to the east of downtown. Construction began in 1945, but was not completed until the 1980s. The church is named for the 17th-century poet Hallgrímur Pétursson, who wrote a well-known series of hymns. In summer, it hosts regular weekend performances on its booming organ.

Sun Voyager (Sólfar)

This popular sculpture evoking an old Viking boat, by Icelandic artist Jón Gunnar Árnason, points northwest in the direction of the setting sun in summer. An ode to the sun, it's is a good place to watch the sea, take a selfie, and ponder the promise of undiscovered territory that brought Scandinavians to Iceland more than a thousand years ago. It sits a few blocks along the shore past Harpa, at the base of Frakkastígur street.

National Museum of Iceland

This thoughtful museum does a beautiful job of showing off the best of what has survived the centuries, and it ties it all together with insightful descriptions. You can see lots of wood-carved scraps, some finely crafted items imported from Scandinavia (and a precious few from Iceland), abundant church art, reconstructions of a rustic farmhouse and a typical open boat, and a gathering of items from the 20th century that helps bring Iceland's story up to the present day. The collection is well laid out and strikes just the right balance, presenting enough information to satisfy those with a reasonable attention span.

Alþingi

The big, stone parliament building faces the square called Austurvöllur, the political center of this small country. The Alþingi doesn't offer public tours, but if parliament is in session visitors are welcome to sit in the gallery.

Harpa

Harpa's facade is the most-loved part of the building: In summer the windowpanes reflect the light in patterns, and in winter they're illuminated in pretty colors. (Photographers find lots of great angles to shoot here.) Inside, you're bathed in the light of those many windows. If you attend a performance or take a tour, you can peek into Eldborg, the main hall, where the dominant materials are black concrete and red wood — evoking the volcanic eruptions that have shaped Iceland.

Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum and Garden

The garden, near Hallgrímskirkja and free to enter, displays 26 bronze works taut with tension and angst. To learn more about the sculptor, see some plaster originals of his works, and walk through his apartment, you can pay to enter the museum.

Saga Líf Friðriksdóttir

Saga is a charming and knowledgeable guide who offers private walking tours of Reykjavík. She also runs Viking Women, a tour company offering a variety of multiday, women-only itineraries around Iceland that range from ambitious hiking trips to wellness retreats.

Kolaportið Flea Market

Reykjavík's flea market, open only on weekends, takes up the ground floor of the old customs building. While you'll see plenty of tourists, the market is still aimed largely at locals. It's fun to rummage through the stalls of used books and music, antiques, clothing (including knockoff Icelandic sweaters), and collectibles. Best of all for food-curious visitors, this is the easiest place in town to sample (or buy) some of Iceland's more unusual tastes, such as fermented shark.

Blue Lagoon

The understandably popular Blue Lagoon has a don't-miss-it reputation — and prices to match. Reservations are required, and some slots sell out days in advance. This keeps the lagoon from getting too congested — even on the busiest days, you can find pockets of hot water where you can escape the tour groups.

Árbæjarlaug pool

This complex may be the most appealing of Reykjavík's thermal swimming pools, with a nice modern design and a lot of variety (several hot pools, lap pool, water slide, steam bath) — yet it's compact and manageable. Like the city's other community pools it lacks the Blue Lagoon's atmospheric setting and opaque water, but is much cheaper and completely untouristy — and this one looks out over a wooded valley with the sprawl of Reykjavík on the horizon.

The Pearl

This interactive nature museum, housed in the city's former water-storage tanks, is a great way to learn a lot about Iceland in one single place. The high-tech exhibits extolling Iceland's abundant natural wonders are engaging, and you get a sweeping view of the city skyline to boot. While pricey, a visit here is a great primer before you head out to the Golden Circle or Ring Road — or a satisfying substitute if you're only visiting Reykjavík.

Golden Circle tours

Driving the Golden Circle on your own is completely doable and offers maximum flexibility, but some find it more relaxing to join an organized bus trip. Reykjavík Excursions, the biggest player in town, is slick and consistent, but their 50-seat buses are typically jam-packed (though they do offer some small-group departures). What these tours lack in intimacy, they make up for in efficiency and lower ticket costs. Several pricier outfits are more personal and generally use smaller vehicles. Well-established and respected companies include family-run Nicetravel, Your Day Tours, environmentally focused Geo Iceland and its small-group sister company Iceland Horizon, and Viking Women. If you have the time, full-day tours are best, as half-day tours cost only slightly less and rush you through the sights.

Þingvellir

At this national park, you can walk along the rifts created by the separating plates, stand at the place where the original Icelanders made big decisions, hike to a picturesque waterfall, see a scant few historic buildings, and even snorkel or scuba dive in a flooded gorge. It's free to visit, but you'll pay to enter the visitors center's (skippable) exhibit explaining the geology, history, and nature of the gorge.

Geysir geothermal field

While the original Geysir geyser is no longer very active, the geothermal field around it still steams, boils, and bubbles nonstop, regularly punctuated by a dramatic eruption of scalding water from the one predictably active geyser, Strokkur.

Efstidalur II Farmhouse

This large family-run dairy farm (with a recommended hotel) runs a popular, family-friendly restaurant, with windows overlooking the cows in the barn, that serves burgers and pricier main courses, including seasonal specials. Their farm-to-table buffet of soup, bread, and fancy spreads is fast, affordable, and delicious. Upstairs, a counter serves homemade ice cream.

Gullfoss

The thundering waterfall called Gullfoss sits on the wide, glacial Hvítá river, which drains Iceland's interior. The waterfall has two stages: a rocky upper cascade with a drop of about 35 feet, and a lower falls where the water plummets 70 feet straight down into a narrow gorge. Somewhat unusually for a waterfall, the gorge runs transverse to the fall line, effectively carrying the water off to the side. Dress warmly: Cold winds blow down the valley, and the spray from the falls can soak you.

See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks.

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Hey, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. This time, we're on the wild and western fringe of Europe. It's the land of mighty waterfalls, the midnight sun, and volcanos. It's Iceland. Thanks for joining us!

We're exploring Iceland's highlights for a short visit: its capital city, Reykjavík, and the unforgettable day trip deep into Iceland's majestic nature. It's called the Golden Circle.

Reykjavík feels laid-back and easy-going. It's chill…in more ways than one — with a landmark church, a scrappy history, and a determined cultural life. We'll soak with the locals in a neighborhood thermal pool. Then, venturing into Iceland's dramatic interior — driving the famous Golden Circle — we'll see the gorge where Europe meets America, thrill under the original "geyser," and feel the spray of a thunderous waterfall.

Iceland — the size of Virginia with less than half a million residents — sits in the North Atlantic, just below the Arctic Circle. From Reykjavík, the northernmost capital on earth, we'll loop inland on the scenic Golden Circle.

Reykjavík, by far the biggest city in the country, is still small — it's about the size of Berkeley…or Fargo. With a hard-scrabble heritage and a vibrant culture, today it offers a tourist-friendly mix of old and new.

While short on world-class sights, Reykjavík certainly has an urban vitality, with plenty of restaurants and shopping to keep visitors entertained. It's unexpectedly cosmopolitan, with an artistic, bohemian flair.

And it's blustery. Iceland can be cold even in summer — this is a typical day in July…and so is this. If you don't like the weather…just wait a few minutes.

Reykjavík's neighborhoods are enlivened by street art. A blank wall will just get tagged with graffiti anyway, so instead, homeowners hire talented street artists to create colorful murals.

It seems every street leads to Hallgríms Church [Hallgrímskirkja], crowning a hill in the town center.

Designed by Iceland's state architect in the 1930s, the church represents the national style. Stark and utilitarian, yet beautiful, it evokes the island's volcanic landscape. Stairstep gables echo Iceland's basalt cliffs.

The interior is…Lutheran: serene and austere. The glass is clear, not stained…and the altar is a simple table.

An elevator whisks visitors to the top of the tower for panoramic views over all of Reykjavík. Two out of every three Icelanders lives within sight of this steeple.

In front of the church stands a statue of Leif Erikson. Born here in Iceland, this Viking explorer is believed to be the first European to set foot in the Americas — about five centuries before Christopher Columbus.

The modern sculpture called the Sea [Sun] Voyager is an homage to those Scandinavian adventurers who — beginning in the ninth century — loaded up their ships, set sail into an uncharted ocean, and brought civilization to this uninhabited island.

Iceland, so harsh and desolate, steaming with volcanos, was settled over a thousand years ago by early Norse farmers. Imagine the original Icelanders: hardy folk eking out a living on remote farms and living in isolation. They chronicled their lives in the sagas — a blending of historical records, tall tales, and legends.

From the age of the Vikings the country grew slowly. By the mid-1700s all of Iceland still only had about 50,000 people, and Reykjavík was just a big farm. As trade — mostly fishing — increased, and towns began to form, Reykjavík emerged as the capital city.

The National Museum collects artifacts from these early days of Iceland.

A society made of wood doesn't leave much behind. But a few exquisite items — like these ornamental horns, and these whalebone carvings — survive.

Pagan Iceland converted to Christianity in about the year 1000. Until relatively modern times, Icelandic settlers lived in rustic cottages. Existence may have been bleak, but families were tight-knit. Many Icelanders lived simple lives — much like this — until the early 20th century.

Life was tied to the sea. Icelanders sailed in open boats, fished for cod, and hunted shark for their valuable liver oil.

More and more, symbols like an official national costume, and its own flag, demonstrated a growing sense of national identity.

Iceland remained part of Denmark through the 1800s. Iceland-born politician Jón Sigurðsson lobbied in Copenhagen for independence — which Denmark finally granted in 1918.

Iceland's parliament — called the Alþingi — may seem humble. But it represents a thousand-year journey in this society from rustic farmsteads to today's modern, democratic nation.

For locals, Parliament Square remains a place to make your voice heard…or to just hang out.

Reykjavík still has a hardworking harbor, busy with both industrial vessels and sightseeing boats.

And, in just the last generation, boldly modern condos and office towers show how today's Iceland is charging into the future.

And a fine example of that is the super-modern concert hall, called Harpa.

In the lobby, the sky reflects like you're inside a giant honeycombed prism. This extravagant use of space — and glass — put Iceland on the world architectural map when it opened in 2011. Welcoming the public, a hit with locals and tourists, and busy with conferences and concerts, Harpa is the hub of the country's cultural and community activity.

This island is proud of its homegrown artists — especially the sculptor Einar Jónsson, who in the early 1900s was inspired by Rodin.

A welcoming sculpture garden is filled with his bronze works.

Inside the Einar Jónsson Museum are the plaster originals. Jónsson's works are intense and emotive. You'll see Viking warriors, bold explorers, protective women, and lots of drama. He blended elements of Christianity, Old Norse legend, Greek mythology, and his own belief that every person contains at least a kernel of goodness. A visit here reminds us that even small countries produce talented artists, like Jónsson, worth getting to know.

For a peek at the city's everyday charms and more insight into the culture, I'm joined by local tour guide Saga Friðriksdóttir, a Reykjavík native who loves showing off her hometown.

Rick: Saga, I love Iceland, but this language is impossible for me.
Saga: Oh, yeah.
Rick: How can any tourist remember that?
Saga: Oh. Well, I mean: Skólavörðustígu.
Rick: Stólavörðustígur.
Saga: Yeah, it's pretty hard, but you know we all speak English as well.
Rick: Thank goodness.

Rick: This street makes me happy.
Saga: Very happy. Very colorful. Dedicated to gay pride. But also a reminder that Iceland is much for…just equality, and human rights. And this is always Rainbow Street.
Rick: Nice.
Saga: Yes.
Rick: So in the summer, days are very long. But in the winter…what is it like in the winter?
Saga: Well, cold and very, very dark. But we have these beautiful, colorful houses. That really characterizes Reykjavík. They brighten up our days in winter. And also, you notice we have a lot of corrugated iron that clothe these wooden houses, which was a revolutionary material because it protected the houses from this crazy Icelandic weather.
Rick: I'm sure, historically, this is a society that has dealt with hardships.
Saga: Oh, yeah, for sure. Definitely. But we have a strong mentality and there's actually a saying in Icelandic: Þhetta reddast.
Rick: Þhetta reddast.
Saga: Þhetta reddast. And it basically just means, "It's going to be fine. Don't worry about it. It's gonna work out."

On weekends, the downtown flea market is a characteristic and mostly local shopping scene.

Rick: This is really a fun place.

And don't miss those famous Icelandic sweaters…

Rick: I don't do a lot of shopping, but when it comes to the Nordic countries, I like a sweater. Oh, that's beautiful. So, Saga, this is…really feels like good wool.
Saga: I mean, we consider it to be the best wool in the world.
Rick: This is like Icelandic sheep.
Saga: Proper Icelandic sheep wool, yes.
Rick: And what is special? Because it feels a little special.
Saga: Well, I guess because they've been roaming freely in Iceland since 874. They know how to deal with rough Icelandic weather, and they give us the perfect clothing for that.
Rick: Oh, yeah. Do you think it's good?
Clerk: Yes.
Saga: It's very good.
Rick: Good. I like it because it feels it has history, you know? It's —
Clerk: It's warm and good — you see you.
Saga: Wow.
Rick: Oh, look at that. Yeah.
Saga: You look like a local.
Rick: I feel like a local! I can speak Icelandic!
Saga: Haha, yes.

The flea market is also a place [where] you can sample some unique tastes.

As the early Icelanders settled this untamed island, they resorted to many "hardship foods."

Rick: So, when we come to Iceland, everybody has to try the shark.
Saga: They have to try the shark. Definitely. I mean, this is the famous Greenland shark.
Rick: This is shark. Fermented shark.
Saga: Fermented shark. Yeah. Because if you would eat the shark straight away, you know, when it's fresh, you would die, unfortunately.
Rick: You would die!?
Saga: Yes, it is toxic.
Rick: So how did you ferment this?
Saga: So you chop it in pieces, you bury it in the ground for some time and then hang it up. And you get rid of the ammonia, or, like, the urine, basically, which is the toxins. And I always think like, how many tries did it take to figure out this method, of, like, not getting killed by eating the shark?
Rick: That just stokes my appetite. Is it possible to try some?
Saga: You have to try it. There's some pieces here.
Rick: Ah, good. I'm gonna put this piece of shark down.
Saga: There you go. And this is usually how it comes, like in small pieces. So you're more than welcome to have a piece or two if you fancy it.
Rick: Heh!
Saga: Give it a good chew.
Rick: Wow. Now that is very fishy right now.
Saga: Yes. Wait for the aftertaste.
Rick: Yeah. My goodness. Now it's like you just got swept over with ammonia.
Saga: Right? And usually you're supposed to drink it with the Black Death schnapps. Brandy wine.
Rick: Ah, some aquavit — some firewater.
Saga: Yes, please have some.
Rick: Oh baby, that is…unforgettable.
Saga: Yeah.
Rick: Oh!
Saga: But now you tried the famous Icelandic shark.
Rick: The aftertaste — I just feel like I've been in a gas station or something.
Tourists: One, two, three, skol!

Iceland is a volcanic island — it's formed at the rift where the European and North American tectonic plates are pulling apart. That's why there's a chain of active volcanoes, hot springs, and steam vents like this cutting right through the center of the country.

Visitors come to Iceland hoping to see a volcanic eruption. But big, dramatic eruptions — that casual visitors can actually get up close to and see — are very rare.

But exploring this island does come with plenty of steamy serendipity. Like roadside attractions, bubbling mud holes gurgle with molten muck. Vents spew steam, and as the fog clears from your glasses, suddenly you're interested in geology!

The entire island is shaped by lava from past eruptions. Dark, chunky lava rock blanketed by cushy moss covers much of Iceland's surface, giving the countryside a desolate, almost lunar feel.

And the Icelanders have ingeniously harnessed their endless supply of green energy. Geothermal plants, in the middle of nowhere, are hard at work boring deep into the earth's crust to tap into hot water. And pipelines carry that super-heated water through miles of countryside to heat and power Reykjavík and other communities.

Despite the chill, houses are toasty. In fact, you'll notice many small windows propped open. Because that geothermal heat is so cheap, people don't even bother turning down the radiator. They just crack the window.

The most enjoyable use for Iceland's hot water is its thermal pools. And the most famous spa is 45 minutes outside Reykjavík: The Blue Lagoon.

Years ago, a geothermal plant began dumping its hot, mineral-rich wastewater into this lava landscape. Locals discovered it was a great place to take a dip. Developers then transformed it into a high-end spa. Today, Iceland's top tourist attraction is close to the airport and a popular first or last stop for visitors.

The Blue Lagoon is a lavish spa, but it's extremely touristy and you sure won't meet many Icelanders here. But the good news? You have plenty of alternatives that are just as relaxing: the community thermal pools.

The Blue Lagoon is popular. But it's expensive — about 10 times the cost of a pool like this. You can luxuriate in the Blue Lagoon, or you can soak with the locals in a neighborhood pool — the choice is yours. Today, I'm soakin' local [at the Árbæjarlaug pool].

Fed by natural thermal springs, the main pool is bathwater-warm. Waterslides, cascades, and kids' zones keep locals entertained. This is where Icelanders meet up after work to connect with friends and family. I can't think of a better way to meet the locals.

And for the ultimate in relaxation, hundred-degree hot pots simmer nearby. Soaking together is a great equalizer. Student, truck driver, doctor, and tourist — everybody's equal in the pool.

Iceland is all about the great outdoors. But, if the weather's bad — as it often is — several indoor sights here in Reykjavík offer a taste of the majesty of Iceland without leaving the capital city.

At the edge of town is a one-stop way to experience the country's top natural wonders — at least virtually — under one roof: the Pearl.

Exhibits feature fiery volcanoes with majestic footage that gives a sense of awe, birds perched precariously on towering cliffs, and a 300-foot-long ice cave. It's a primer on Icelandic nature, especially worthwhile for those without the time or money see the real thing.

The most elusive natural thrill is the aurora borealis. In summer, when it's too light to see these northern lights, you can step into the planetarium to get a sense of this fabled phenomenon.

But of course, there's nothing like experiencing the real thing. Remember, even if you come in the winter solely for the northern lights, there are no guarantees of seeing them. But, if you do see those ethereal lights dancing in the sky, the experience will stay with you for the rest of your days.

The weather's great, and from Reykjavík, we're making the classic 150-mile day-trip loop: the Golden Circle.

Within minutes we're immersed in Iceland's iconic wide-open spaces and enjoying the dramatic scenery of this island's natural wonders.

Today we'll see gorges, waterfalls, geysers, and more…with epic views all along the way. By the way, most people do this as a day-trip on a tour bus. But we're driving.

Our first stop is Þingvellir. This national park is important to Icelanders for two reasons.

First, at this gorge, you can see the rift that marks that slow separation of tectonic plates. Walking along this fissure in the earth's crust, travelers sense this meeting of two continents: America on the left, Europe on the right.

And second, Þingvellir — which means "Assembly Plains" — was the site of the original Alþing, an annual gathering of early settlers.

This is where the nation of Iceland was born. A thousand years ago, chieftains from isolated farms all over the island traveled great distances to meet right here every summer and make important decisions. In an age when almost no one could read or write, each meeting began by reciting the memorized highlights from last year's gathering.

History aside, Þingvellir is inviting for a nature walk. In this evocative spot, waterfalls tumble and the river flows as geology does its slow-motion dance.

Just up the road is a geological site actually called Geysir. This geothermal field — colorful and steamy with scalding water — is home to the original geyser, which means "gusher" in Icelandic.

The site is otherworldly as pools bubble and steam fills the air, all with a whiff of sulfur. But the big show is the central geyser. Tourists line up, cameras poised with antici…pation, ready to capture the moment. They wait…and wait…and wait. Sometimes they wait so long the weather actually improves. And then, suddenly, with a gurgling belch the geyser explodes, rocketing skyward and thrilling the crowd.

As you drive the Golden Circle, remember to slow down and enjoy the scenery. And it's not just about the famous natural sights. Along the way, you'll see slices of Iceland's unique agriculture.

With its efficient greenhouses, even with a lack of good topsoil and its difficult weather, Iceland grows plenty of tasty vegetables. The climate is harsh for conventional farming. But its expertise in greenhouse technology, and in putting geothermal energy to good use, yields an abundant harvest.

For lunch, we're stopping at a working farm [Efstidalur II Farmhouse]. It's clear that frugal farmers here are tapping into the tourist boom. This family now serves hungry sightseers. The soup bar is a budget standby: It's all you can slurp with fresh-baked bread and a glass of water and a cup of coffee. And you can finish with a farm-fresh dessert with a special twist: The cows actually watch the diners enjoying ice cream made from their very own milk.

For generations this family has raised horses. Horse lovers know that Iceland's local breed is special. Small and sturdy, these were first brought over by Vikings in the Settlement Age — a thousand years ago — chosen because they could fit inside the hold of a ship, yet they were strong enough to work hard once they arrived.

Throughout the country you'll see these wind-blown beauties. A long-established ban on importing other breeds means that today's Icelandic horses are purebred and unique. They also have a distinctive gait that thrills equestrians.

The final stop on our Golden Circle loop is one of the most impressive waterfalls in a country famed for waterfalls: Gullfoss — the Golden Falls.

The churning glacial river plummets into a narrow gorge. Up close the cauldron comes with a deafening roar. And even from high above, visitors feel the spray, wonderstruck. Gullfoss is one of those places Iceland specializes in: where you feel the raw power of nature. It's the perfect climax to a Golden Circle day.

This remote island — with its mighty nature, tiny population, and gritty love of life — brings out the explorer in all of us. And I'm inspired by both its wild beauty and its people. I hope you've enjoyed our look at Iceland: its capital city and its Golden Circle. Until next time, I'm Rick Steves. Keep on travelin'!