Winter in London: Chilly Weather, Warm Memories

Visit London in winter for Christmas delights or off-season exploration.

By Rick Steves
Light displays over London's Oxford Street at Christmas
London brightens winter's dark nights with bright, twinkling lights. (photo: Cathy Lu)
Ice skating at Somerset House, London, England
Skating in front of Somerset House is one of London's top winter activities. (photo: Rick Steves)

London dazzles year-round, so consider visiting in winter. Despite the season's drearier weather and shorter days, London's museums, theaters, and pubs always offer a warm, cozy welcome. And come January, tourist crowds are at a minimum, and airfare and hotel rates are generally cheaper.

London is especially appealing (though crowded) in the weeks leading up to Christmas, when the city dresses up to the nines and bursts with festivities. In mid-November, ye olde Christmas markets spring up all over the city. The market on Leicester Square is perhaps the most central, but the Southbank Centre Winter Market (between the London Eye and the Royal Festival Hall), is one of the biggest. Other major markets include one in London Bridge City (also on the Thames' southern bank, between London Bridge and Tower Bridge) and in the center of maritime Greenwich.

Many other squares are specially outfitted for the season. Covent Garden's spectacular transformation includes a festival of mulled wine, impressive decorations, and even a bit of daily snowfall. Nearby Trafalgar Square always sports a giant twinkling tree, given to London every year from the people of Norway in appreciation for British support during World War II. Free carol concerts are held beneath the tree, and a new poem is commissioned every year to be displayed at its base. The year-round gourmet extravaganza of Borough Market becomes a wonderful place to sample mulled wine, Christmas pudding, mince pie, and other traditional and seasonal favorites.

The city's biggest to-do is Hyde Park Winter Wonderland, a giant Christmassy carnival that takes over a good share of the park through the end of the year. It boasts enough rows of old-time market stalls to rival the Southbank Centre's market, as well as the UK's biggest outdoor ice rink — plus roller coasters, a Ferris wheel, circus show, a "magical ice kingdom," and all kinds of kitschy fun.

Santa, a.k.a. Father Christmas, has been known to receive visitors in his "grotto" in Winter Wonderland, but magically he also manages to offer a lap and an ear at many other spots around town, including Greenwich Market, Leicester Square, and the Museum of London Docklands.

Elaborate light displays and store windows sparkle along major shopping streets, including Oxford Street, Bond Street, Regent Street, and Carnaby Street. Christmas concerts and sing-alongs bring carols and hymns to Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, and Royal Albert Hall. Most walking-tour companies offer special tours with seasonal themes (Dickens, light displays, caroling).

Ice skating is easily London's coolest outdoor offering in winter (at least in a literal sense). Somerset House has the Rockefeller Center of London ice rinks, where you can glide alongside the facade of a grand Neoclassical building. Other ice rinks sprawl in front of Hampton Court Palace and in Canary Wharf. Most are open for skating from mid-November until mid-January. (The rink in Canary Wharf runs a few weeks longer.)

Of course, London always offers plenty to do indoors, and many well-touristed sights host special events and exhibits, such as the Tower of London, Kew Gardens, the London Zoo, Museum of the Home, and the Harry Potter Studio Tour in Leavesden.

"Pantomime" plays are a curious holiday treat. These wacky, beloved slapstick shows, while primarily aimed at kids, are so delightfully English that it'd be a shame to miss a chance to see one in London, no matter your age. Most performances are put on prior to Christmas, but shows go into the new year. Two London theaters that usually stage pantos are the Hackney Empire and the London Palladium.

New Year's Eve in London is usually busiest in the South Bank district, as the midnight fireworks are set off from the London Eye and nearby river barges. Shows attract upwards of 400,000 revelers to Trafalgar Square — the traditional hub of the partying — and the nearby riverbank. All of the biggest partying takes place within earshot of Big Ben, whose midnight chimes are broadcast nationwide. On New Year's Day, a parade featuring 10,000 performers snakes through Soho. (Be aware that tickets are required for the fireworks, parade, and many events around the city — buy in advance.)

January brings out the best shopping deals, with many big sales kicking off immediately after Christmas. And while most Yuletide events wrap up within a week of New Year's Day, mid-January can be an ideal time for sightseeing, as it's easily the city's least-crowded time of year.

February is also relatively uncrowded, though London is a major destination for families during the week-long "half-term" break most British schools take in mid-February. Colorful Chinese New Year celebrations — which some claim are the largest outside Asia — liven up the West End in February (or late January, depending on when the lunar new year falls.)

London's theater season is in high gear all winter. The plays rival New York's in quality and range of options, and usually beat them in price. Whether Shakespeare, musicals, comedies, thrillers, cutting-edge experimentation, London does it all…and does it well.

London's a super one-week getaway, with sights that can keep even the thoughtful traveler well entertained. Whether you visit during the busy winter holidays or take advantage of less-crowded post-holiday times — as long as you're dressed for the weather — London is sure to delight.