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Guidebook Updates for ‘Rick Steves Mediterranean Cruise Ports’

When we learn of critical changes to the information in our Mediterranean Cruise Ports guidebook, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!

Barcelona

For books printed before May 2024, the following may apply:

  • All four of Sagrada Família's evangelist towers are now complete. Construction of the final, central tower is expected to wrap up in 2026.
  • The bus running between Sagrada Família and the Eixample is #D50 (not #50 or #19).
  • Park Güell is now open until 22:00 April–Oct (but last entry in summer is at 19:30; the rest of the year it closes at sunset). The Monumental Zone no longer requires a timed-entry ticket. The Bus Güell shuttle between the Alfons X Metro station and the park's side entrance is no longer running — we recommend taking either a taxi or bus #24 to a stop near the side entrance.
  • The Picasso Museum's center ground-floor entry is the only way in to the museum.
  • Casa Batlló now offers early entrance daily.
  • Juan, the owner of the Bar Pinotxo in La Boqueria market famous for his gregariousness and warm smile (long pictured in our guidebooks), has passed away.
  • While renovations to the Camp Nou soccer stadium are underway, an interactive exhibit and the flagship team store remain open at Camp Nou, but the team is playing in the Olympic Stadium on Montjuïc, likely through some point in the 2025–2026 season.
  • The Sagalés bus connecting the Costa Brava Airport to Girona (and to Barcelona via train to/from Girona) now runs hourly (not every 10 minutes), but only takes 30 minutes (as opposed to 1.5 hours).

For books printed before October 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Tickets are no longer sold on-site at Sagrada Família — all visits now require a pre-booked timed-entry ticket (check the site for new opening hours and ticket options).
  • Visitors must now pay to enter Park Güell. The Monumental Zone now includes just the terrace and dragon stairway/fountains.
  • Reservations are now required for guided tours in English of Casa Museu Amatller and at the Palace of Catalan Music (although both offer audioguides).
  • The correct email address for local guide Mónica Sánchez Sabater is [email protected] (some printings have an erroneous "d" in the address).
  • The tourist information offices on Plaça de Sant Jaume and on Plaça Nova (in the Barri Gòtic, inside the Catalan College of Architects) have closed, but a new office is now open on Pla de la Seu, next to the cathedral.
  • Casa Batlló now offers nighttime visits.
  • The Gaudí Exhibition Center has closed.
  • Casa Lleó Morera is now closed to the public.
  • Bike Tours Barcelona no longer rents bikes for general use.
  • The Barcelona Guide Bureau has closed.
  • The Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau is now preserved as a Modernista sight, now known as Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau. The complex's courtyards and buildings are now open to visitors.
  • Several recommended restaurants have closed: Café de l'Academia, Cerveceria Vendimia, Parellada, Monvínic ("World of Wine"), El Guindilla, and Mamarosa Beach.
  • The Kitchen Company shop has closed.
  • Herbolari Ferran herbalist has closed.
  • Hotel Banys Orientals is now Hotel Habana Hoose.
  • Equity Point Hostels are now Safestay Hostels.

​For books printed before October 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Barcelona's main airport has been renamed Josep Tarradellas Barcelona–El Prat Airport.
  • The Barri Gòtic street Sant Doménec del Call has been renamed "Carrer de Salomó Ben Adret."
  • Bus #24 no longer stops at Park Guell's side entrance, and bus route #92 (which had also stopped at Park Guell's side entrance) has been discontinued.
  • The Barcelona Cathedral is now open for tourist visits Mon–Fri 12:30–19:45, Sat 12:30–17:30, Sun 14:00–17:30 (+34 933 428 262). Visitors can no longer use the side door facing Carrer dels Comtes, and cloister doors are reserved for those with reduced mobility.
  • The T10 Metro travelcard is no longer available. The new T-casual card covers 10 rides for €11.35, but this card is not sharable; each rider needs their own ticket.
  • Parellada restaurant has closed.

 

Aix-en-Provence

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The email address for Hôtel Cézanne is now [email protected].
  • The Brunet Chocolatier mentioned in the "Aix-en-Provence Walk" and noted for its macarons has closed. (A different shop has opened at that location, but it sells very few macarons.)
  • A fire destroyed the historic Les Deux Garçons restaurant.

French Riviera

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Chagall Museum in Nice often closes at lunchtime (12:00–14:00) and may close at other odd times (check its site for the latest).
  • Buses and trams in the Riviera no longer accept tickets per se; now you need to first purchase a €2 travel card (available in digital or physical form) to which you add funds to cover the cost of your ride(s). Travel cards are available via the Lignes d'Azur mobile app, in person from bus drivers, at vending machines at Nice's main train station and at key tram/bus stops (including at the airport), and at Lignes d'Azur offices. Single trips on Nice's city buses cost €1.70 (covers 74 minutes of travel in one direction including transfers); an all-day pass is €7, and a seven-day pass is €20. Round-trip travel by tram between Nice's airport and the city center costs €10.
  • Buses in the Riviera are now run by the Zou bus network, and bus numbers have changed (timetables at Rome2Rio are easier to use than those on Zou's own site). Main changes to note:
    • Bus #601 (not #100) connects Nice with Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and Monaco.
    • Bus #620 (not #200) connects Nice with Cagnes-sur-Mer and Cannes (4/hour Mon–Sat, 2/hour Sun).
    • Bus #603 (not #116) connects Nice with La Turbie and Monaco along the High Corniche (5/day, leaves from Pont Michel T-1 tram stop in Nice).
    • Bus #650 (not #500) connects Nice and Grasse (2/hour, 1 hour).
    • To connect Nice with St-Paul-de-Vence, take the train between Nice and Cagnes-sur-Mer and the frequent bus #655 (not #400, which had run all the way to/from Nice) between Cagnes-sur-Mer and St-Paul-de-Vence (allow about one hour total). Bus #655 also serves Vence.
    • Bus #80 (not #110) connects Nice's airport with Monaco (Place d'Armes stop).
    • Bus #81 (not #210) connects Nice's airport with Cannes' train station.
    • Bus #82 (not #250) connect's Nice's airport with from Antibes.
  • The phone number for Nice's tourist information office is now +33 4 92 14 46 14.
  • The tourist information office next to Cannes' train station has closed.
  • Le Cantine de Tiflo restaurant in Villefranche-sur-Mer has closed.
  • La Cabane de l'Ecailler restaurant in in St-Jean has closed.
  • Two recommended restaurants in Antibes, Chez Lulu and Le P'tit Cageot, have closed.
  • Parking in Eze-le-Village is now easy, thanks to a big new underground parking garage.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The Lignes d'Azur info desk at 17 Rue Thiers in Nice has closed, but Nice's main train station still has a Lignes d'Azur info desk. Office hours are now generally Mon–Fri 7:30–17:30, Saturday until 15:00, and closed Sunday.
  • The combo-ticket for Villa Kérylos and Le Trophée des Alpes is no longer available.
  • Transportation to Le Trophée des Alpes from Nice has changed: Bus #116 leaves from the Vauban tram stop except on Sundays, where it departs from the Pont St. Michel tram stop.
  • Nice's airport buses #98 and #99 have ceased operations. Instead the T-2 tram line runs between the airport and Port Lympia.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Nice's Tram #2 now goes from the Nice airport to the city center at Jean Médecin, where visitors can transfer to Tram #1.
  • Coco & Rico restaurant in Nice (near the Promenade des Anglais) has closed.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Cruise lines now provide a shuttle boat right from the cruise dock at Port of La Seyne-sur-Mer (near Toulon) that takes passengers directly to Toulon's central waterfront (free or €10, depending on cruise line, 20 minutes).

Across Italy

  • It seems that car-rental agencies in Italy are now more frequently requiring renters to show an International Driving Permit. To avoid hassle in Italy, it's best to get one before your trip (see our tips at Rental-Car Red Tape in Europe).
  • Overnight Paris–Italy trains (formerly run by Thello) are no longer operating; direct trains between France and Italy are now limited to daytime TGV and Frecciarossa trains on the Paris–Lyon–Turin–Milan route.
  • Direct Frecce trains run once or twice a day between Rome's Fiumicino Airport and Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, and Naples.
  • Some websites ending in ".it" only operate when the sight itself is open. From the US, you may have to visit them first thing in the morning.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Museums run by the Italian state are free to enter once or twice a month, usually on a Sunday. Free days are actually bad news — they attract crowds. In peak season, check state museum websites in advance and make a point to avoid their free days.
  • Tuscany's regional bus companies have been subsumed by a big company called Autolinee Toscane. Tickets are available through their app, Autolinee Toscane offices, and at machines.

 

Florence

  • For buses and trams, the easiest way to pay is by "contactless" ("tap-to-pay") credit card payment when you board. To use paper tickets, buy them at tobacco shops (tabacchi), newsstands, tram stops, and some bus stops (€1.70/90 minutes).
  • There are no longer shuttle buses from the Florence airport to local train and bus stations. Transportation to and from the airport is by tram, taxi, or rental car.
  • Florence has banned new Airbnbs and other short-term rentals (grandfathered listings still exist as an option; we no longer recommend them).
  • Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
  • There is a third tourist information office in Florence, near the Church of Santa Croce at Borgo Santa Croce 29 red.
  • Booking in advance at the following sights is critical: the Accademia (two months in advance); the Uffizi (one month in advane); and climbing the Duomo's dome (one month).
  • Each of the three passes for the Duomo Complex includes a timed entry to a different sight: The Ghiberti Pass includes a timed entry to the cathedral; the Giotto Pass includes a timed entry to climb the Campanile; and the Brunelleschi Pass includes a timed entry to climb the Duomo's dome.
  • The PassePartout combo-ticket offers admission to the Museum of Precious Stones in addition to the Uffizi, Pitti Palace, and Boboli Gardens.
  • A Bargello Museums combo-ticket covers entry to the five sights run by the Bargello: the Medici Chapels, Orsanmichele Church, Palazzo Davanzati, Casa Martelli, and the Bargello itself. The €21 pass is valid for 72 hours.
  • The Bargello Museum is now closed on Tuesdays and has a new information phone number: +39 055 064 9440.
  • The Medici Chapels are now open Wed–Mon 8:15–18:50; closed Tuesdays. Last entry is 40 minutes before closing.
  • For the Brancacci Chapel, reservations are required and can be booked a few days to a week in advance. The chapel is now open daily except Tuesdays and has a new information phone number: +39 055 276 8224.
  • The Accademia Gallery has a new information phone number: +39 055 098 7100.
  • The Pitti Palace has a new information phone number: +39 055 294 883.
  • Fra Angelico's predella panels of the Wedding and Funeral of the Virgin has been moved from the Museum of San Marco to the Uffizi to be displayed with the main altarpiece.
  • The interior of the Baptistery's dome is under restoration until 2029. You can book a guided tour up the scaffolding to see the mosaics up close.
  • The Bardi Chapel at Santa Croce is closed for restoration until at least 2025; panels show the Giotto frescoes in the meantime.
  • At Santa Maria Novella Church, Masaccio's fresco The Trinity (the first painting of modern times to portray three-dimensional space) is undergoing restoration. During this time, visitors can pay €1.50 to enter the restoration are and see the fresco up close.
  • The Museo dell'Opera at Santa Croce is closed for renovations.
  • At the Pitti Palace, the Royal Apartments, Porcelain Museum, and first floor of the Treasury of Grand Dukes are closed for restoration.
  • The Vasari Corridor (connecting the Pitti Palace and Palazzo Vecchio) remains closed.
  • Orsanmichele Church is now closed on Tuesdays and no longer has evening concerts.
  • At the Palazzo Vecchio, nighttime terrace visits remain closed to the public, though in summer, you may be able to visit the balcony in the evening; ask at the ticket office. Excavations of a 2,000-year-old theater from ancient Florentia are closed to the public indefinitely.
  • The Coin department store on Via de' Calzaiuoli has closed, and a new branch has opened at Piazza del Grano 5, near the Uffizi.
  • The flea market formerly at Piazza dei Ciompi has moved near Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio.
  • There is no longer an antiques market in Fiesole.
  • Hotel Morandi Alla Crocetta at Via Laura 52 has reopened as Guest House Morandi, with new owners and a new phone number: +39 055 234 4747.
  • In Piazza della Signoria B&B is now called Boutique Hotel in Piazza della Signoria. The new mobile number is +39 333 465 5886.
  • On Elba, the local orange shuttle bus service in Portoferraio, which normally operates between the ferry port and the old harbor, may be running inconsistently.
  • The Francesco da Firenze shop has closed.
  • Pasticceria Robiglio has closed.
  • Gosh bar and Mostodolce craft brewery have closed.
  • Cross-Pollinate vacation rentals is no longer operating.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The tourist information office's new website is the best source for the opening hours of many Florence sights, which change on a seemingly constant basis. Also, the office's smaller branch, across from the Duomo and inside the Loggia, has closed.
  • Some museums — such as the Accademia, Uffizi, Pitti Palace, and Bargello (but not the Medici Chapels) — are once again offering free admission on the first Sunday of the month. (But since the free admission causes increased crowding at these sights, we recommend avoiding these days.)
  • The Uffizi and Accademia may no longer stay open late on certain days in peak season — double-check their current hours before assuming you can visit in the evening (and of course book ahead for a visit to either museum).
  • Room numbers have been rearranged on the Uffizi's first and second floors.
  • The combo-ticket for the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens is now valid for five days (not three), and no longer requires that your first visit be to the Uffizi.
  • The Florentine State Museums' site is the best for booking tickets for the Uffizi, Accademia, and the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens combo-ticket.
  • The Duomo interior and the Museum of San Marco are now closed to visitors on Sundays. The Museum of San Marco's room that was formerly known the Hospice has been renovated and is now labeled as the Beato Angelico room; paintings have been rearranged.
  • Ticket options for the Duomo complex sights have changed — see Making Museum Reservations in Florence. We now recommend booking the Duomo's dome climb at least a month in advance.
  • If the main ticket office for the Duomo and its related sights (opposite the Baptistery at Piazza di San Giovanni 7) is still undergoing renovation during your visit, use the self-service ticket machines or visit the temporary ticket office at Piazza del Duomo 14a (opposite the entrance to the Duomo's crypt).
  • Santa Croce Church is no longer accessible from the leather school, and the school no longer sells tickets to the church. Timed-entry tickets are now available on the church's website.
  • The Museo Leonardo Da Vinci has moved to Via del Castellaccio 1 red.
  • The Palazzo Vecchio Museum and excavations are no longer open till 23:00; they usually close at 19:00, though they may close earlier on certain days (and may stay open later during peak season).
  • Florencetown tours have moved to Piazza Mentana.
  • Florentia tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Walks Inside Florence has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The correct URL for perfumery Aquaflor's website is www.aquaflor.it (not .com).
  • Sanctuary Firenze is now Suore Oblate dell' Assunzione (+39 055 234 6291, [email protected]).
  • Hotel dei Macchiaioli has closed.
  • Locanda de' Ciompi's email address is [email protected].
  • Hotel Dalí has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Recommended guide Karin Kibby's new email address is: [email protected].
  • Hotel Maxim and Hotel Axial are now one hotel: Hotel Maxim Axial (+39 055 217 474, [email protected]).
  • Prestige Rent has moved to Via della Saggina 98, and has a new phone number: +39 055 286 059.
  • Transfer Chauffeur Service has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Basilica of San Lorenzo is now closed Sundays, and the basilica's library is now open Mon–Fri 9:30–13:30, closed Sat–Sun.
  • The Gucci Museum (now called the "Gucci Garden Gallery") is now open daily until 23:00.
  • The Duomo now closes at 16:30 Mon–Sat year-round (though opening times sometimes change to accommodate to religious functions).
  • English mass at the Duomo is now Sunday at 17:00.
  • The Duomo sights combo-ticket is now valid for 72 hours.
  • There's a new contact email for booking Duomo-themed tours: [email protected].
  • A new combo-ticket for the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens saves you €12 over paying separately for each site.
  • The Pitti Palace's two ticket options have changed. Ticket #1 now covers most of the sights (the Palatine Gallery, Royal Apartments, Treasury of the Grand Dukes (silver museum), Museum of Costume and Fashion, and Gallery of Modern Art) while ticket #2 now covers the Bardini and Boboli Gardens as well as the Porcelain Museum.
  • The Medici-Riccardi Palace has a new phone number: +39 055 276 8224.
  • The new tram line, T2, is now operating between Amerigo Vespucci Airport and near Florence's SMN train station (runs every five minutes, 20 min, runs 5:00–24:00).
  • Bus #7 to Fiesole now leaves from near the train station on Piazza Adua rather than from Piazza San Marco (only return buses stop there now; with returns also near the train station at Largo Alinari).
  • Buses #14 and #17 no longer run between the train station and Piazza San Marco but buses #7 and #12 now do.
  • The city of Florence no longer rents bikes at the train station.
  • Turishav Travel is now Florentour. Their hours are now 9:30–16:30, closed Sat–Sun.
  • Walks Inside Florence's website is now at www.walksinsideflorence.it.
  • Istituto Gould has been renamed Foresteria Valdese di Firenze.
  • Hotel Europa has new ownership and has been reopened as Arté Hotel.
  • Panella's Residence has new ownership and is now open under the name Haggi's Residence.
  • Lovelife Café has closed.
  • Due Sorsi e Un Boccone has closed.
  • Trattoria I' Cche c'e' c'e' has closed.
  • Minibus #D is now #C4, and runs on a slightly different route, traveling from near the Duomo to the train station, across the Carraia bridge, through the Oltrarno (passing the Pitti Palace), and on to the San Niccolò neighborhood.

 

Pisa

  • The LAM Rossa (L/R) bus from Pisa Centrale Station to Piazza Manin (in front of the Field of Miracles) has changed names to #1+. You can pay with a contactless credit card (tickets are still available on the A-T app or machines).
  • Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
  • Relais dei Mercanti hotel has a new phone number: +39 324 885 7881.
  • Hotel Helvetia has a new phone number: +39 050 622 2706.
  • Hotel Royal Victoria has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Caffetteria BetsaBea has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Guide Martina Manfredi has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The main tourist information office is now open daily 10:00–18:00 (until 16:00 Nov–Feb).
  • You can now visit the Duomo without a reservation voucher, provided you have a ticket for any other single Field of Miracles sight (doesn't have to be a combo-ticket).
  • You may no longer be able to purchase bus tickets after boarding the bus; instead, get a ticket at a machine or tobacco shop.
  • Osteria lo Scioglipepe has closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • While it's best to make a reservation for the Leaning Tower in advance, there's usually no line after 18:00 (and you may be alone after 19:00; it's open until 20:00 April–Sept and until 22:00 mid-June–Aug).
  • Antica Trattoria il Campano is now open nightly 19:30–22:45.
  • Il Vegusto has closed.

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The LAM Rossa bus stop at the Pisa Centrale Train Station is now outside the main entrance and to the right (not in front of the NH Cavalieri Hotel). Travelers can no longer take this bus line to or from the Galileo Galilei Airport to Pisa Centrale Station. Travelers must use either the "Pisa Mover" train to get to Centrale station from the airport, or take a taxi.

 

Lucca

  • Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
  • At San Martino Cathedral, the Volto Santo (a cedarwood effigy of the crucified Christ said to be the oldest wooden sculpture in Europe) is under restoration until at least late 2025. On weekends during the restoration, you may be able to see the Volto Santo through a window into the on-site restoration lab. The annual Volto Santo procession and Mass will still take place on Sept 13 and 14 while the restoration is underway.
  • The tourist information office on Piazza Curtatone has closed indefinitely.
  • Il Cuore Enogastronomia restaurant/deli has closed.
  • There is no longer an arts and crafts market near the cathedral on the last weekend of the month.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Profer baggage storage in the train station has closed, and the main tourism office on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi no longer stores bags.
  • Lucca Urban Adventures is now called Tuscany Like a Local (but has the same owners, and offers the same food tours).
  • Lavanderia Self-Service Niagara and Easy & Speedy Lavanderia have closed. Instead, try the self-service launderette at Via Galli Tassi 12.
  • The Carni Val Serchio butcher shop and the Loom of Penelope weaver's shop have both closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Ostello San Frediano has closed indefinitely.
  • La Locanda Sant'Agostino and Sogni d'Oro Guesthouse have closed.

Rome

  • 2025 is a Catholic Jubilee year, which will bring millions of pilgrims to Rome. To help you plan when to visit (or avoid) certain areas, particularly around the Vatican, check the Jubilee 2025 website or visit the Pilgrims Welcome Center in Rome (Via della Conciliazione 7) for events calendars, news, and information.
  • Fiumicino Airport currently has only two operating terminals (T1 and T3). Terminal T5 is closed for renovation.
  • You can now pay as you enter the Metro, buses, and trams by tapping your contactless credit card.
  • Public transit prices are due to increase in January 2025. Standard fare will be €2 (valid for 100 minutes); day passes, €9.30–24 (sold in increments of 24, 48, and 72 hours); and week passes, €32.
  • The tourist information office at Termini station has closed.
  • We now recommend booking timed-entry tickets for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel as far in advance as possible (€25, including reservation fee). If individual tickets are sold out during the dates of your visit, consider booking a guided tour instead (€40, includes admission). The shop on St. Peter's Square no longer sells same-day tickets to the Vatican Museums.
  • The website for purchasing Colosseum tickets has changed. Be aware that the site may work only during Colosseum opening hours.
  • The Roman Forum/Palatine Hill/Imperial Forums are one single-entry sight: If you plan to visit more than one, you'll need to do it in a single visit, using internal connecting routes (no exiting to the street and reentering). Be aware that the website for purchasing tickets may work only during Forum opening hours.
  • The Pantheon now charges a €5 entrance ticket, available via the Italian Ministry of Culture's site and in person: at the entrance, choose the shortest line and book at the machine, pay as you enter, or book online while you wait. Entry is free the first Sunday of the month. Be aware that these ticketing details may change later in 2024.
  • To climb the dome at St. Peter's Basilica, the ticket office (with stairway entry) is typically on the south (left) side of the basilica but sometimes moves to the right side, where the elevator entrance is. Those visitors who want to take the elevator will still need to buy tickets at the ticket office on the left side, and walk around to the elevator entrance.
  • The ruins at the Sacred Area of Largo Argentina (Area Sacra di Largo Argentina) are open to visitors (€5, Tue-Sun 9:30-19:00, shorter hours off-season, closed Mon).
  • Visits to the Catacombs of Priscilla are by 45-minute guided tour only.
  • The website for information about the Borghese Gallery is now galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
  • The Appia Antica Caffè once again rents bikes — both regular and e-bikes (Via Appia Antica 175, +39 06 8987 9575).
  • Arch Rome Suites has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Can't Be Missed Tours has a new phone number: +39 333 779 1273.
  • The evening sound-and-light shows at the Imperial Forums have been discontinued.
  • The Mercato Monti market has closed.

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Tickets for the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill are sold online only (no tickets sold on-site). All Colosseum tickets are timed-entry.
  • Reservations are currently required for weekend visits to the Pantheon. (No reservations are required or possible on weekdays.)
  • The tourist information offices on Via Nazionale (at Palazzo delle Esposizioni) and near Piazza Navona (at Piazza delle Cinque Lune) have closed.
  • Visiting the Borghese Gallery has become a little easier: Entry is still by mandatory reservation, but appointed times are now offered hourly (rather than every two hours) and you're no longer required to limit your visit to two hours. To help with crowd control, visitors are now routed to different floors upon arrival.
  • The Roman Guy tours has a new phone number: US +1 888 290 5595.
  • Tom Rankin no longer leads guided tours.
  • Another option for requesting tickets to a papal audience is to email the Bishops' Office for US Visitors to the Vatican three months to three weeks prior to your requested date; you'll pick up tickets the afternoon before your visit ([email protected]).
  • Tickets for the Rome from the Sky elevator (at the Victor Emmanuel Monument) now include admission to the Risorgimento Museum.
  • The Mausoleum of Augustus has been restored and is open to visitors who book online far in advance.
  • The Roman Houses at Palazzo Valentini are now open every day.
  • The small museum at Ostia Antica is closed for renovations.
  • Eating Italy food tours is now Eating Europe.
  • Several recommended restaurants have closed: Il Pentagrappolo, Hostaria da Nerone, and Pizzeria Annicinquanta.
  • San Crispino Gelateria (in the Pantheon neighborhood) has closed.
  • Many recommended shops have closed, including Made bakery, Spazio, Peperita, dell'Alta Moda, Vertecchi, Il Cerichio dei Goloso, La Peonia, Attilio, Roncaccia, and Santa Maria Novella.
  • The live music venue and enoteca Il Pentagrappolo has closed.
  • Dharma Style Hotel is now Dharma Luxury Hotel and has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Casa di Santa Brigida has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Bellesuite Rome has closed, but Maison delle Naiadi Roma has opened in its place, with renovated rooms.
  • Several recommended hotels have closed: Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci, Hotel Due Torri, Hotel San Carlo, Hotel Margaret, and Hotel Sileo.
  • Cross-Pollinate vacation rentals is no longer operating.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • "Decorum laws" are now more strictly enforced, including fines. We no longer recommend picnicking anywhere but in parks or other green spaces. Eating discreetly is fine, but not near major sights.
  • The shortcut from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter's is no longer an option. It is strictly for tour groups and the exit is monitored.
  • Colosseum and Forum tickets have changed: The basic Colosseum and Forum/Palatine ticket has gone up in price and is valid for 24 hours. The SUPER ticket is gone; in its place are two new tickets:
  1. The Full Experience ticket, valid two consecutive days, covers the Colosseum (plus choice of arena or underground area), Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, special Super sites, and the newly opened Imperial Forums (Forum of Julius Caesar and Forum of Trajan, connected by a new path that passes beneath Via dei Fori Imperiali).
  2. The Forum Super Pass, which is valid one day, includes Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, special Super sites, and the Imperial Forums, but not the Colosseum.

Both of these tickets allow entry near Trajan's Column.

  • The 48-hour Roma Pass only offers one sight, not two. This pass now covers the Villa Borghese.
  • St. Patrick's Church no longer arranges papal audience tickets.
  • The Museum of the Liberation of Rome is now open daily 9:00–19:00, except closed in August.
  • The café at the Victor Emmanuel Monument has closed.
  • Electric minibuses are back: Elettrico #117 connects San Giovanni in Laterano, Colosseo, Via Cavour, Via Nazionale, and Trevi Fountain. Elettrico #119 connects Piazza Venezia, Via del Corso, Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo, and Piazza Augusto Imperatore.
  • The Opera da Camera di Roma has moved to Palazzo Albertoni Spinola at Piazza Capizucchi 6 (close to the Jewish quarter).
  • Feltrinelli International bookstore has closed.
  • The Italo train+bus connection between Rome and Sorrento has been suspended.

 

Naples

  • At Cappella Sansevero, reservations are now mandatory; there are no walk-up tickets available. You can book a timed-entry ticket up to 60 days in advance. Additional tickets may be released starting three days prior to your desired date. Visiting times are Wed–Mon from 9:00–18:00.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The CitySightseeing hop-on, hop-off tour company no longer runs a shuttle bus between the city center and the Capodimonte Museum — taxis are now your best option.
  • Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.
  • Two recommended restaurants near the Archaeological Museum — Rosticerria Angela and La Stanza del Gusto — have both closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before March 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The southbound Circumvesuviana commuter train now stops at a new station called "Villa Regina" just before the stop for Pompeii — meaning that the Annunziata stop is no longer the last station before the Pompeii stop (Pompei Scavi).
  • Trams are not currently running in Naples (because of road construction), and won't be for several years. Take the Metro if you need to get between the port area and the main train station.
  • Cruise-ship passengers can now use a handy CitySightseeing shuttle that runs between the Naples cruise port, Naples' main train station, and Pompeii. This is easier than taking a train and much cheaper than a taxi or private cruise excursion (€15, 4/day usually at 9:15, 10:00, 10:45, and 11:30; last bus leaves Pompeii at 16:30).

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The location of the Alibus airport shuttle bus stop has changed at Centrale Station. It is now to the left as you exit the station, near the Tiger store.
  • The tourist information office inside Centrale Station has moved to the main lobby, next to the Trenitalia ticket office.
  • Galleria Borbonica's website is www.galleriaborbonica.com.

 

Pompeii and Herculaneum

  • Pompeii archaeological site no longer sells the bracelet allowing re-entry to the site. Each ticket is for a single entry only.
  • Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply:

  • There is no longer a combo-ticket that covers both Pompeii and Herculaneum.
  • Rick now also recommends Gaetano Manfredi as a guide to Pompeii.
  • Cruise-ship passengers can now use a handy CitySightseeing shuttle that runs between the Naples cruise port, Naples' main train station, and Pompeii. This is easier than taking a train and much cheaper than a taxi or private cruise excursion (€15, 4/day usually at 9:15, 10:00, 10:45, and 11:30; last bus leaves Pompeii at 16:30).

Amalfi Coast and Paestum

  • Mondo Guide has updated their prices and information — see their site for the latest.
  • Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.
  • CitySightseeing's bright red hop-on, hop-off buses aren't currently running between Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, though you could call to confirm that service hasn't resumed since we posted this (+39 081 1825 7088). Service to Ravello is almost certain not to resume.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Positano's tourist information office has closed. In summer, however, the town sets up information stands at the Sponda bus stop, on Piazza dei Mulini, and at the beach.
  • The tourist information office in the town of Amalfi is now open April–Oct daily 9:00–17:00.
  • Ravello's tourist information office has moved to Viale Richard Wagner 4.
  • Positano's main beach, Spiaggia Grande, is now almost completely private; entry costs range roughly between €20 and €100.
  • Giovanni Visetti is no longer guiding tours.
  • Brikette Hostel in Positano no longer offers day privileges (luggage storage, Wi-Fi, or showers) for nonguests.
  • La Zagara in Positano no longer hosts evening musical performances.
  • Charter La Dolce Vita in Amalfi is now Premium Boat Charter.
  • The Monetti taxi service's site has a new URL: www.monettitaxi17.com (not .it).
  • Both the museum and archaeological site at Paestum have undergone renovations and pandemic-related reorganization such that your guidebook's description may be a little off. Fortunately, good signboards in English explain major features.

Venice

  • The dome of La Salute Church is now open to visitors (€8, Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00), making for another breathtaking Grand Canal viewpoint. Its sacristy (now €6) is now closed all day Mondays, and on Tuesday mornings.
  • Venice is now charging day-trippers €5 on certain dates; at those times every visitor to the old city should be prepared to show a QR code as proof that they've paid the fee. The city also charges a tourist tax for overnight visitors (€1–5/person per night, depending on time of year and accommodation class); your hotel will provide you with the QR-code proof of your overnight stay.
  • For St. Mark's Basilica, we now recommend making reservations at least a month in advance in peak season.
  • The Treasury at St. Mark's Basilica is closed indefinitely.
  • The tourist information office inside the train station has moved to the edge of the canal nearby. it's now located to the left of the Church of Santa Maria of Nazareth (between the Ferrovia vaporetto dock C/D and the train station).
  • Vaporetto line #3, which runs from Venice's train and bus stations to Murano-Colonna, is suspended due to restoration work.
  • The Alilaguna aiport boat's red line (linea rossa), which connects Marco Polo Airport with Venice city center and other nearby stops, runs only from mid-April through October.
  • At San Giorgio Maggiore, there is a mandatory €8 "donation" to climb the bell tower, which must be paid in cash. (And the island does not have ATMs.)
  • At Scuola San Rocco, Tintoretto's Crucifixion is under restoration until at least 2025, so some paintings in the Sala dell'Albergo may be covered up.
  • In the Cannaregio district, near the Arsenale gate, the Ships Pavilion (with 19th-century boats) may be closed for renovation.
  • The Jewish Museum is closed for renovation until at least 2025.
  • La Fenice opera house has a new box office phone number: +39 041 272 2699.
  • Trattoria da Bepi has changed its name to Bepi Antico 54.
  • Osteria al Ponte Storto has changed its name to Ai 4 Feri Storti.
  • Guide Sara from Walks Inside Venice has passed away. (Roberta is still guiding.)
  • Cross-Pollinate vacation rentals is no longer operating.
  • Il Merletto lace shop on Burano has closed.
  • La Murrina shop on Murano has closed.
  • Inishark Pub has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • St. Mark's Basilica now charges admission (€3, or €6 for timed-entry advance ticket).
  • From late May to mid-September, vaporetto line #2, which typically runs between Piazzale Roma (bus station) and San Marco/San Zaccaria via Giudecca, converts to an express boat that runs all the way down the Grand Canal to/from San Marco.
  • Venice Bites Food Tours is no longer operating.
  • The Rolling Venice card is valid for ages 6–29.
  • The Vetri d'Arte shop in Palazzo Rota no longer offers glassblowing demonstrations.
  • City Sightseeing no longer runs hop-on, hop-off boats to the lagoon islands.
  • La Botique del Gelato has closed.
  • Casa Rezzonico hotel is closed for renovations, and may not reopen under the same name.
  • Hotel Anastasia has closed.
  • Albergo Doni has a new phone number: +39 348 511 1007.
  • Abbazia Hotel has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Locanda Ca' San Marcuola has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Locanda Herion has new a new email address: [email protected].
  • The intercity bus services formerly operated by Sena/Baltour have been taken over by Flixbus, with some changes in frequencies and routes.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • Free tours of St. Mark's Basilica now begin at 11:00 (not 11:30)

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Italo now runs a useful Milan–Venice train route.

For books printed before May 2018, the following may also apply:

 

Across Croatia

  • Statehood Day, a public holiday across Croatia, is celebrated annually on May 30 (not June 25). June 25 is now Croatia's Independence Day (not October 8), but is no longer a public holiday, so travelers can expect businesses and sights to remain open as usual.
  • Shops across Croatia are now closed on most Sundays throughout the year, following a law passed in 2023.

For books printed before August 2023, the following may also apply:

For books printed before June 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Eurail Select Passes are no longer being sold (but similarly priced Global Passes still are) — see our 2019 rail-travel update.

Dubrovnik & nearby

  • In an effort to ease traffic congestion, there's talk of allowing only locals with permits to drive into Dubrovnik as soon as 2025. Drivers should ask their host for an update before arriving by car.
  • A new public boat makes a single run from Dubrovnik's Port Gruž to Trsteno, then to Lokrum, and then back to Port Gruž four times a week in summer — handy if you want to visit both places in one day.
  • Advance tickets are recommended for the boat to Lokrum to avoid long ticket-buying lines.
  • The Red History Museum has changed its off-seaon closed day from Tuesday to Sunday.

For books printed before August 2023, the following may also apply:

  • The Pelješac Bridge has finally opened, making it possible to avoid the little stretch of Bosnian coastline when driving between Dubrovnik and Split.
  • The interior of the Dominican monastery church may still be closed for renovation during your visit.

For books printed before June 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Vina Matković, one of the four Potomje wineries, has moved.
  • Karmen Apartments is now Van Bloemen Apartments.
  • Dubrovnik's city walls now cost 200 kn to enter. While it's now possible to make reservations, you'll still have to contend with crowds and heat on top of the wall, so visiting early or late remains the best plan.
  • The shuttle bus from the airport no longer stops at the Pile Gate in the Old Town. If you're staying near the gate, ride the airport shuttle to the bus station, then take a public bus (or taxi) to Pile Gate.

Across Greece

For books printed before June 2020, the following may apply:

  • The "Athens & the Peloponnese" map on the foldout map included in Rick Steves Greece and in Rick Steves Pocket Athens has the incorrect scale; it should read "40 Kilometers / 25 Miles."
  • For information on Greece's archaeological sites and museums, a better website than what's printed in the books is http://odysseus.culture.gr/index_en.html.

Athens

  • The Acropolis is now open 8:00–20:00 in summer, Sept until 19:00, Oct until 18:00, Nov–March until 17:00 (last entry times will almost certainly be earlier than official closing times).
  • Timed-entry tickets may soon be required for the Acropolis (a trial of the online system has been taking place since September 2023). Since a timed entry is still required for those with a combo-ticket, it's smart to buy the combo-ticket online and make a timed-entry reservation at the same time (combo-tickets purchased at other participating sights may not allow you to skip the line at the Acropolis). Go to HHTicket.gr to reserve. Currently, time slots are available at the top of each hour for a one-hour window (though there may not be a limit on how long you can stay once you enter). Plan to arrive 30 minutes before your reserved time.
  • State-run Hellenic Heritage sights and museums, including the Acropolis, are free on the first and third Sunday of the month during off-season (Nov–March).
  • To see the changing of the guard in front of the Parliament building (Sundays at 11:00), it's smart to arrive 30 minutes early, at 10:30.
  • The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art is closed for renovations through summer 2025.
  • The tourist police have a line in English and other languages, 1571, for emergencies and help with other issues, such directions and disputes with locals (answered 7:00–22:00, sometimes 24 hours). For emergencies you can also call 122 (24 hours, typically English-speaking operators). There's a tourist police visitor-help office east of the Central Market in Psyrri (7:30–22:00, Dragatsaniou 4, +30 210 322 2230).
  • The Museum of Modern Greek Culture is now closed on Tuesdays.
  • The AthensTourTaxi has two new phone numbers: +30 211 214 0683 and mobile +30 693 229 5395.
  • Blend hotel has closed.
  • The Sgourda dishware company in the Central Market has closed.
  • Ancient Greek Sandals shop (at Kolokotroni 1) has closed.
  • Oineas restaurant has closed.

For books printed before May 2023, the following may also apply:

For books printed before June 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Melissinos Art sandal shop has moved to Tzireon 16, two blocks down Athanasiou Diakou from the Akropoli metro station in Makrigianni.
  • In Athens, Uber operates as UberTaxi. You'll still book your ride through the app, but a taxi will pick you up. Rates to and from the airport are fixed, so Uber won't save you money on this route (but may still be useful for the convenience and familiarity).
  • Gazi College Eatery has closed.
  • Tylixto Greek Wrap restaurant is now Ermina's Grill House.
  • Hotel Grande Bretagne's Roof Garden Restaurant has a new website: www.gbroofgarden.gr.
  • The Zillers email is [email protected].
  • Museum of Greek Popular Instruments, previously free, is now €3. It also has new opening hours: Wed–Mon 8:30–16:00.
  • The Library of Hadrian is now open daily 8:00–20:00 (shorter hours off-season).
  • The Roman Forum is now open daily 8:00–20:00.
  • The Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture is no longer open until 24:00 on Saturdays (it's still open Thu until 24:00).
  • As many museums have throughout Greece, a few Athens museums are now closed Tuesdays instead of Monday: the Byzantine and Christian Museum, Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture, and the Museum of Greek Popular Instruments.
  • CHAT Tours has a new website: www.chat-tours.com.
  • The tourist police have moved to east of the Central Market in Psyrri (Dragatsaniou 4, +30 210 322 2230).
  • George's Taxi has a new email: [email protected].
  • Olympic Traveller taxis is now Tune in Tours and has new contact info: +30 210 653 7209, mobile +30 697 320 1213, [email protected]. Tune in Tours have also taken over the tour company Greek Travelling.
  • The Sunshine Express tourist train is now only for private tours.
  • The main tourist information office near the Acropolis now stays open later all week (Mon–Fri 8:00–21:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–18:00). Their new email is [email protected].
  • All Metro lines except Line 1 start running at 5:30 (Line 1 starts at 5:00).
  • When using the Metro, it's now required that riders scan their ticket at the turnstile each time they start and end a journey. For buses, scan your ticket as you board.
  • Athens' transit system is gradually transitioning from single-use paper tickets to multiride "passes" and a smart card system that's reusable and rechargeable. The new multiride passes are available as paper tickets with 2, 5, or 11 rides (appears as "10+1" on ticket machines). They offer a slight per-ride discount and do not expire, but cannot be shared between people.
  • The two "back-door" exits from the Agora, at the South Gate and to the Apostolou Pavlou pedestrian street, are closed. Visitors to the Agora can only enter and exit at the main entrance on Adrianou street.
  • The Theater of Dionysus can only be visited from within the Acropolis site. Admission is included with Acropolis ticket.
  • A second entrance — on the south side of the Acropolis — is now open across the street from the Acropolis Museum. It is often less crowded than the west entrance.
  • The Acropolis ticket now covers just the Acropolis and sights on the north and south slopes, including the Theater of Dionysus.

 

Mykonos

For books printed before May 2023, the following may apply:

For books printed before June 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Local guide Antonis Pothitos's new email is [email protected].
  • The Mykonos Folklore Museum is now closed Sunday year-round.
  • The Mykonos Archaeological Museum has new hours: daily 9:00–18:00, Thu–Sat until 21:00, closed Tue, shorter hours Nov–March.
  • Restaurant Madoupas has closed.
  • Hellenic Seaways no longer runs ferries between Mykonos and Santorini. SeaJets still runs.