Guidebook Updates for Ireland
When we learn of important changes to the information in our guidebooks on Ireland, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- Visitors to the UK are no longer able to get a VAT (value-added tax) refund on purchases made in UK shops, and tax-free sales at airports, Eurostar train stations, and in ports have been discontinued. In Northern Ireland, overseas visitors can still buy items tax-free at stores that offer this service, provided that the items are sent directly to an overseas address outside the UK and the EU. The UK's rules around tax-free shopping may evolve further as the UK continues to adjust to the fallout from Brexit.
- In the "Sleeping in Inishmore" section of Rick Steves' Ireland 22nd edition, the location of these two hotels should be reversed on the Kilronan map on page 425: Dormer House and Seacrest B&B.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may also apply:
- The Doolin Ferry Company is now the only outfit running ferries to the islands from Doolin's harbor. (Ferries also leave the mainland from Rossaveal and Galway.)
For books printed before November 2024, the following may also apply:
- A £4.70 dayLink transit pass (formerly the iLink smartcard) covers trains, buses, and Glider buses throughout downtown Belfast as far out as the Ulster museums in Cultra and George Best City Airport. The iLink smartcard now covers areas farther out: The Zone 2 version adds Bangor and Carrickfergus Castle (£10.50/day, £40/week); Zone 3 includes Belfast’s distant international airport (£14/day, £53/week); and Zone 4 gets you anywhere in Northern Ireland, including Portrush and Derry (£17.50/day, £62.50/week).
- Belfast's tourist information office no longer stores bags.
- Belfast City Bikes on Winetavern Street no longer rents bikes or offers bike tours.
- Manny's Chapel Lane Fish & Chips in the Cathedral Quarter has closed.
- The Barking Dog restaurant in South Belfast has closed.
- Ibis Belfast Queen's Quarter has closed.
- The Wellington Park Hotel is likely no longer open to the public, and we no longer recommend it.
- The Elms Village student dorm may no longer rent rooms to travelers in the summer. Instead, we recommend the year-round Vagabonds hostel (also operated by HostelWorld).
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- The bus between Drogheda and the Brú na Bóinne visitors center is now Local Link #188.
- The region is now easier to visit without a car, as Ennis and Galway are connected by bus #350, which runs five times daily with stops at the Cliffs of Moher, Doolin, and Lisdoonvarna. Ennis is on a smaller spur rail line, but is well connected to the bigger rail hubs of Galway and Limerick. That works for the coastal sights, but if you really want to delve into the Burren without a car, book a tour.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may also apply:
- The medieval banquet at Dunguaire Castle is under new management.
- Vaughan's Pub in Kilfenora is under new ownership and no longer offers Irish set dancing.
- Brogan's, in Ennis, no longer offers live trad music.
- Three recommended accommodations in Doolin are under new ownership: Kay's House, Half-Door Cottage, and Rainbow Hostel.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- St. Columba Heritage Centre is now open mid-Feb–Dec Mon–Fri 10:30–15:00, and other times by appointment only.
- Entrada restaurant has closed.
- SuperValu supermarket has closed.
- Merchant's House lodging has closed.
- The Chart House restaurant has closed.
For books printed before November 2024, the following also may apply:
- Clonmara B&B no longer books individual guests (only tour groups).
- The Global Village Restaurant has closed.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- The Book of Kells Experience, a new high-tech exhibit, has opened in New Square (2 minutes from the Old Library) at Trinity College; it's included in the Old Library admission ticket. Meanwhile, the Old Library and its contents are being painstakingly restored — it's currently open to visitors, but is mostly empty of books. The library is set to close for several years, beginning in late 2025; during this time the Book of Kells will be on display in Printing House, a new building at Trinity College.
- Pat Liddy's Highlights and Hidden Corners tour is now €25, and the discount for Rick Steves readers is 20 percent off with the code "RSTEVES23"; tours should be booked ahead online. In the main season the tour runs daily at 10:15 (instead of 11:00), and in summer they run a second tour Mon–Sat at 14:15. The meeting point is now the "Tree of Gold" sculpture in Central Plaza on Dame Street. Private tours now start at €245 for a half day.
- The Musical Pub Crawl now departs from the Ha'penny Bridge Inn (at 42 Wellington Quay in Temple Bar), not Gogarty's Pub.
- The Evening of Irish Folklore and Fairies has moved from the Brazen Head pub to the Stag's Head pub (at 1 Dame Court) and become a pre-dinner show that now runs from 17:00 to 18:30 (after which guests may enjoy dinner at the Stag's Head or at one of the many restaurants nearby).
- The Dublin Pass has been rebranded as the Go City All-Inclusive Pass, with the same offerings and prices.
- Dollard & Co. market hall eateries have closed.
- Porterhouse Central is now Tapped.
- The Dingle Whiskey Bar is now just called "Distilled."
- Windsor Lodge in Dun Laoghaire has closed.
For books printed before January 2023, the following may apply:
- Kenmare's Hawthorn House B&B has closed.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may also apply:
- It is now possible to visit Muckross House without a guided tour.
- You no longer need to make an appointment to see a demonstration at the Kissane Sheep Farm — just check their site for their current demonstration schedule.
- Kenmare guide Anne-Marie Cleary has renamed her business Kerry Tour Guides and expanded her offerings ([email protected]).
- Kenmare's ancient stone circle is no longer open to visitors at all hours; it's now visitable approximately 8:30–20:30, though in summer it's open until dark, and closes earlier off-season.
- The Smugglers Café (across the bridge from Portmagee) has closed.
- The Willow Lodge in Kenmare has closed.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- The museum in the cellar of the Hall of the Vicars Choral at the Rock of Cashel is closed indefinitely because of water damage. The entrance to the hall is now on the courtyard side, and the ticket office has moved from the hall to a small building along the path leading to the complex.
- Wattie's B&B in Cashel has closed.
For books printed before January 2023, the following may apply:
- Kinsale's bus stop has moved to a spot just behind the tourist information office, across from the waterfront parking lot.
- Tom Canty is no longer running taxis; instead, contact Flash Cabs at +353 86 826 1296.
- The Kinsale Mead Company now offers tours Nov–March by appointment only, and April–Oct tours are at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00.
- Jo's Rooms hotel has closed.
- Mother Hubbard's restaurant has closed.
- Finn's Table is now Finn's Farmcut.
- Duncrone B&B in Ardmore has closed, as has the Cliffhouse Hotel restaurant (the hotel is still open).
- The Adelphi Portrush hotel has closed.
- The 55 North restaurant has closed.
For books printed before November 2024, the following may also apply:
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
For books printed before November 2024, the following may apply:
- Tara's Palace Museum of Childhood (near Powerscourt) has closed.
- Guided tours at Glendalough are now offered daily at 15:00 April–mid-Oct (now only 35 minutes). Now that the tours are offered at a less-crowded time, it's worth planning your visit around this tour.
- The museum at the Irish National Stud has been replaced with the fun, interactive "Irish Racehorse Experience" exhibit (included with ticket), which vividly illustrates all aspects of Ireland's obsession with horses.
- A shuttle bus no longer connects Kildare's train station to the Irish National Stud. Whether you arrive in Kildare town by train or bus, you now need to take a taxi (or a long walk) to reach the stud.